Thursday, May 14, 2009

Bitter-sweet truth about Changunarayan

Ever heard of Dolashikhar Swami?? No thats not the name of some saintly figure. Its the original name of one of the most oldest temples with great archaeological importance- the Changunarayan. Situated on a ridge overlooking the Kathmandu Valley, Changunarayan is one of the oldest and most impressive examples Lichachhavi period's astounding architecture in Nepal.

Changunarayan which was called Dolashikhar Swami in the Lichchhavi period was reanamed as Chaugunarayan in Nepal Bhasa during the Malla period. Also known as Champa Narayan in Sanskrit, the present Changunarayn temple is most widely popular for it has the probably oldest inscription in Nepal's history. Changunarayan's complex is a World Heritage Site, and is known for its incredible woodcarvings, metal inscriptions and stone statues, which adorn the courtyard, all dating between the 5th and 13th centuries.

This impressive double roofed temple is said to be the most ancient Vishnu temple in the Kathmandu Valley. The original temple was built around the 4th century. Although history books have it that king Manadeva built the temple, the reality seems far from it. according to the temple's priest, Chakradar Ananda Rajopadhyay, King Haridatta Varma who is supposed to have ruled nine generations ahead of Manadeva was the first person to built the temple. The inscription at the temple says nothin about King Manadeva buliding the temple, rather it has been mentioned that the very king only donated land for the temple's guthi.

If we go by History books, they say alot of insanely wrong things about Changunarayan. For instance, eigth grade EHP book published in the year 2052 had it that the Changunarayan jatra takes place in the month of Magh. But it actually takes place in the month of Baisakh. Similarly, it also writes that Changunarayan is called Maghman Narayan which is absolutely false. It is infact not none by any other name except for Chagunarayan, Champanarayan and Garudnarayan.

So, the next time you visit places of archeological importance don't just go by what the history books say.

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